As we approached Martinique, we were greeted by 2 large dolphins that swam alongside our hull. They rolled over on their sides to eyeball us. I got so excited I think I scared them away!
Martinique is the prettiest and cleanest island we have been to thus far. We are both in love with this island. Our first port was Saint Pierre known as the Paris of the Caribbean in the late 1800's and early 1900's. The wealth of the island was in the plantations. Ships would take on rum, sugar, coffee, and cocoa, and enough was sold to make several of the plantation owners multi-millionaires. However, in 1902 a volcano above the town burst open, releasing a giant fireball of superheated gas that flowed down over the city, releasing more energy than an atomic bomb. All that remained were smoking ruins. 30,000 people were incinerated within 2 minutes. Only 2 people survived, a cobbler and a man in a stone prison cell who later became an attraction with Barnum and Bailey Circus.
We have been to Fort de France which is the capital of Martinique. It is a well developed city with much commerce and global businesses. But, the people take their family and rest time very seriously. There is not a single restaurant, bar, or shop open Saturday afternoon through Sunday.
We are currently in Sainte Anne - a sleepy, quiet cove with a few beach restaurants and shops, mountains in the background. We will go into the town today, have a ridiculously high cholesterol and caloric french lunch then try some scuba diving nearby. Hopefully, we will be able to swim after such a meal!
Tomorrow we leave for Le Marin which is our last stop in Martinique then to St. Vincent and St. Lucia. We'll need to stock up with as much with water, fuel, food, and drink as we can to last us for a few more weeks. The islands south of here can be very expensive. Martinique has wonderful french wine for about $4-5 a bottle and the french cheese and fresh fruit is out of this world. You can bet we will get a couple of cases of that wine to go!
Photos: a "house" looking like a boat a Rastafarian built on the beach; crew hard at work NOT earning her dog bones; St. Pierre with volcano in background; the capital city fort des france; Sainte Anne.
December 29 - January 4
After a week in Iles Des Saints, we decided to sail to Dominca. As each boat arrives in the harbor, they are greeted with about 3 skiffs of islanders and "Welcome to our beautiful island!" These guys are more than happy to escort you to their mooring, get fresh fruit and ice for you and even fill up the dingy gas tank which is what we did. Of course, they overcharge when doing so but as one said, " We all have to eat."
On the first day we met a lively couple from Canada who have been doing this for 3 years. Actually, we are such newcomers at cruising these islands that I have yet to find another. People have been doing this for 5,6,7 years! Some sold their houses, businesses and belongings to pursue this dream. I don't know. Seems too long for me.
Anyway, we had this couple, Al and Michelle, aboard for drinks ( I was starved for conversation with others!) and learned quite a few things about the cruising lifestyle, security and the islands. We attended a beach party for cruisers organized by locals for New Year's Eve. It was great fun! The rum punches really packed a punch and we danced to the DJ music after having a BBQ. I can tell you this, EVERYONE suffered the next morning with hangovers.
On New Year's Day, Al and Michelle invited us over to their boat with another couple for a ham dinner that was out of this world. They bought it in Canada and smuggled it in. It was a good time.
Right now we are at a beach bar having drinks and using their wifi. The place is owned by this huge guy named Big Pappa who keeps calling me Little Girl! Maybe he needs glasses. The Christmas winds are here and it has been blowing hard all day. Tomorrow we rent a car to see the rest of the island. More later....
December 22 - 29
We spent on night at an anchorage in Guadeloupe before heading to the Iles des Saints which are a group of small, dry, mountainous French islands. Here we spent a few days over the holidays on the island named Terre Den Haut at an anchorage of a small fishing village. The houses have red roofs and the older Caribbean building have balconies and gingerbread trim. flowers grow in abundance around the houses and no one is in a hurry.
Christmas Eve here is spent in celebration. The music and drinking starts early on the main street with the locals and goes well into the night. ( see photo ) The music drowns out the church bells that chime every hour. I don't understand the significance of this happening on Christmas Eve and there was no one sober enough to ask! We spent it quietly on the boat listening to our Christmas DVD's and hanging Christmas lights around the cockpit.
The town was very quiet the next day and we enjoyed our Christmas dinner in a courtyard setting of a restaurant with tall palms and warm breezes. As delightful as it was, it is not the same as being home with family which we both missed very much.
The next day we rented a motor bike to tour the island and try to find gas for the dingy outboard which was at this point running on fumes. We found lots of unspoiled beaches and breath taking vistas, but no gas. Apparently, we will have to go to another island to get some! We suspect that what ever gasoline they have is saved for the locals.
